From patrols on the River Tiber to surveillance drones and snipers deployed around St. Peter's Square, Rome is preparing to throw a thoroughly modern security shield around the ancient rituals of a papal funeral and its attendant huge crowds.

Alongside the gossip and the gallows humor, the ancient and solemn rituals continue,” Chiara Barzini writes from Italy.

The first minister will be at the ceremony on Friday along with heads of state and governments from around the world.